Argentine Inspirations for Beef
Volume 48, Issue 7
By Michael Safdiah
I rarely plan meals before I’m actually in the market and see something I feel like cooking. Chef Paul Bocuse taught me that the decision of what to cook must always be made in the market. There was a package of beef cubes, the kind of tender cuts from the sirloin or the filet, but too small for steaks. Any good butcher, or cook for that matter will not waste anything. My cooking philosophy arose from being poor, and I never could understand those spoiled brats I used to work with in the New York restaurant kitchens who wasted ingredients, didn’t know how to trim meats, and never knew how to make a mousse without Valrhona Chocolate. They would have horrified any one of the master chefs I learned my craft from; they would have horrified my mother too. These cubes of tender succulent beef weren’t cheap cuts, but I knew they’d make wonderful kebabs.
In Argentina beef has been given high status as special, and the Argentines know how to raise and barbecue it almost better than anywhere else. They have a wonderful marinade or garnish called Chimichuri. It is a classic in their cuisine. I’ve decided to use it as my inspiration and made my own posted below here.
Original Chimichuri:
One jalapeno, 1 clove garlic, 2 tbsp. fresh cilantro, 2 tbsp. fresh parsley, 1 tsp. Oregano, 1 tsp. chili powder, 1/4 cup olive oil, 3 tbsp. lime juice, 1 tsp. salt Directions: Cut top off jalapeno. Discard seeds if you would like the sauce mild. Add all ingredients into a blender or food processor and blend.
Marinate steaks with a sparing amount, just enough to cover the surface of the steaks. I think mine’s even better, but you decide. The measurements are approximate.
My BBQ Marinade:
Five tbs chopped shallots, 3 Tbs chopped Italian parsley, 3 Tbs chopped fresh mint, pepper, salt, and enough red wine vinegar to cover the herbs. Then add 2 Tbs olive oil. Let stand an hour and cover with plastic film. Sprinkle the meat generously with freshly ground cumin seed. Cumin is one of those spices which unless you grind it fresh you’re at a loss to experience the explosive beauty of it.
Using some of the marinade, moisten the meat you plan to grill, leave it for half an hour, turning once. Skewer the meat or place it in a grill holder, and cook it to medium rare. Then place the hot meat into a bowl with more of the marinade. Be sure the meat is coated with the marinade
Have a loaf of French baguette at the table, and tear off hunks of bread, and wrap some bread around each piece of grilled meat. It’s no great reach of creativity to get yourself some chunks of tender leg of lamb and treat the lamb as you did the beef for an astounding treat to your senses. In fact, the mint and cumin combination recall several Middle Eastern influences I’ve experienced. The bread was Pita, and was used during the grilling process to blot up the juices as they exuded from the cooking meats. The bread was more enjoyable than the meats most of the time.
LEMON CHICKEN
This is one of my favorites! I love to do it for my friends. They beg me for it and once they have tasted it they are eager to learn the dish, and I gladly show them how.
I’ll begin by saying that I almost never cook any kind of chicken off the bone due to the loss of flavor, but this is an exception: You will need a boneless and skinless breast which you will slice open so it is even thinner, then pound the meat so it is an even thickness throughout. Show it no mercy. Pounding the meat tenderizes it and you will see with your first bite how wonderful this step is to the total effect. Coat the chicken lightly with flour. Chop a few cloves of garlic, and a small bunch of parsley. Have ready some olive oil, some butter, some anchovies, and some chicken stock, or water and some hot sauce. A whole lemon, and a lemon zester are also needed on standby. You will be sauteeing this dish and nothing can be out of arms reach once you begin to cook. We call this "mis en place" in French which means have all your stuff ready and in place before you start to cook.
Into a large nonstick skillet, place the butter and the olive oil, and gently cook the garlic with two anchovies, and as you cook the anchovies, mash them so they disintegrate. Some corner of heaven will surely smell like your kitchen right now. Now add the chicken. Cook over medium heat on one side and cover the chicken with the zest of half a lemon. Turn the meat over and zest the other half of the lemon onto the chicken. Sprinkle a few tablespoons of drained and rinsed capers onto the chicken. Cover the pan. Lower the heat to very low and allow the meat to just simmer. When the meat is almost cooked, and not a second longer, remove it to a plate and add the parsley, salt, pepper, and some chicken stock or even water, a dash of hot sauce and some more olive oil. Bring the sauce to a boil, and reduce, correct seasonings and pour over the chicken, serving at once. A note on doneness: Boneless breasts are perfect (moist, and succulent) only when they are not overcooked.
Happy eating, and hearty appetite!
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